Antique Revival Gold Filigree Necklace Fontenay

This archaeological-revival gold necklace features a filigree decoration, which is in fact thin golden wire twisted into refined motifs, in this case elegant little balls. You can also notice the use of granulation on this piece. Granulation is a technique where the goldsmith uses very small balls (granules) of metal, which are not soldered to the piece but welded. Both techniques demand very high skills and precision from the maker. The continuous uniform fringe decorated with beads, wirework and florettes of this necklace is typical for the work of Eugne Fontenay.

A demi-parure of very similar design is illustrated in French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century, Henri Vever, translated by Katherine Purcell, P. 643. And a similar necklace plus matching earrings were sold at Sotheby's for $ 52.000 (Important Jewels auction, New York, February 2008 sale n08410, lot 110).

Eugne Fontenay (1823-87) was one of the foremost goldsmiths in France during the second half of the nineteenth century. He was a great admirer of the ancient techniques of granulation and filigree, and became best known for his outstanding work in the'archaeological'Era. Fontenay was no doubt inspired by the Campana collection of ancient jewellery, acquired by Napoleon III in 1860, and his firm produced much work in the antique Era based on Greek, Roman and Etruscan examples.

Eugne Fontenay, son of goldsmith Prosper Fontenay, founded his own workshop on the rue Favart, Paris, in 1847. By the 1850s he had achieved considErable success, culminating in the execution of a tiara for the Empress Eugnie in 1858. However, it is his work of the 1860s for which he is most renowned. Called the «archeological Era, » Fontenay's pieces were influenced by ancient Greek, Roman, and Etruscan examples, and were certainly inspired by the 1860 arrival in Paris of the Campana Collection, ancient jewelry purchased by Napoleon III. In addition to exquisite goldwork, Fontenay collaborated with the enamelist Eugne Richet on a series of jewelry containing enameled plaques which employed antique themes and an antique Era. He received a gold medal at the 1867 Paris World Exhibition for his work in this Era, and counted among his many prominent clients the Viceroy of Egypt, the Shah of Persia and the King of Siam.

Fontenay was a founding member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Bijouterie-Joaillerie-Orfvrerie in Paris and was awarded the cross of the l (c)gion d'Honneur as a member of the jury at the Vienna exhibition in 1873 as a result of his masterly Report on the goldsmiths'and silversmiths'work. In 1882, Fontenay retired and devoted his time to publishing numerous articles on jewelry, as well as working on his masterpiece, Les Bijoux Anciens et Modernes, published posthumously in 1887.

Henri Vever in his extensive work French Jewelry of the 19th Century, described Fontenay as a «man of distinction and rare intelligence, of great discernment and impeccable taste. A true artist and a distinguished writer, he handled a pen as skilfully as a paint brush. » See also the Vever, P. 642.

Necklace Fontenay ref. 09251-0188

18 Carats yellow gold, eagle's head hallmark

Date: 1860-1870

Origin: France - Paris

Length necklace 36.50 cm (14.37 inch)

Weight: 84.50 grams