Absolute top notch bracelet by Gariod with star sapphire and rose…

Want to hear a nice story? We bought a beautiful bracelet about a year ago and recently we got contacted by someone who told us to have the same! This person did not want to wear it anymore and wanted us to buy it as we already had the other one. So now we have two and it is hard to say which one is nicer. This one has a bit larger sapphire in its center but for the rest they are identical.

Let's start looking at the master mark in this piece. We see an «l» and a «g» which was the «poiçon de maître» (French for «master mark») for Léon Gariod. This company was established by Gaucher and Tonnelier in 1859. Gaucher became the sole owner in 1869 and started a partnership with Gariod in 1875 who took over the company in 1884. The company with its address in Rue St. Augustin 29 in Paris became specialized in articulated bracelets and mat gold chains with precious stones.

What's interesting about this company is that they worked very closely together with L. Gautrait, an illuster jeweller of the Art Nouveau period of who not much, if any, biographical information is known. According to Vever (who wrote the «bible» for antique jewelers around 1900), Gautrait was a «ciseleur-modeleur» and fidèle collaborateur» of the Parisian jewellers Léon Gariod. Vever characterised his collegue as an «excellent perfectionistic jeweller with a delicate taste».

Vever continues: «These simple yet decorative jewels were meticulously made and extremely popular. With his attractive brooches and his pendants of contemporary or traditional inspiration, Gariod's work has attracted a great deal of attention. With his faithful collaborator M. (… M and not l ! - Adin) designs and chases these creations, characterized by their great refinement.

Details:


Antique jewelry object group: bracelet

Country of origin: France

Period: ca. 1880

Material: Mostly in 18k gold but the center part is silver on top and backed with 18k yellow gold

Diamonds: 96 rose cut diamonds (ten more as in the other bracelet). We do not have the weight of the diamonds which is normal in our trade when it comes to rose cuts.

Precious stones: One oval cabochon cut star sapphire with a size of approx. 1.65 Cm X 1.42 cm (0.65 X 0.56 inch) and a total thickness of 1.13 cm (0.44 inch)

Brand: Master mark (clearly visible on picture) is by Léon Gariod

Hallmarks: The French control mark for 18k gold representing an eagle's head that was in use in France from about 1838 and the French control mark representing an rhinoceros'head that was in use in France from about 1847.

Condition: excellent condition

Dimensions: length 18.70 cm (7.36 inch)

Weight: 39.60 gram (25.46 dwt)

Reference nº: 10298-0001

Feel free to request information or additional pictures.

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